The first Falkland Islands King George VI set was printed by Bradbury Wilkinson, and was issued from 1937 through 1949. Most of the issues were printed four times. Each of these printings has visible traits that may help you identify your stamps. This article attempts describe these characteristics for King George VI collectors.

Before we get into to sorting stamps, let me tell you my methodology. I collect KGVI stamps based on printings. I try to accumulate as many copies as possible, and compare them to notice their various features. There are certain factors that I use to make these comparisons:

· 1) The look of the paper and gum as seen from the back of the stamps against black and later white laser printer paper under twin spotlights using 75 watt soft white bulbs. There are noticeable differences due to the changes in materials used during this time period.

· 2) The relative thickness of the paper against black paper using the same lighting conditions This helps me see the characteristics of the watermark, and how thin or thick the paper appears based on the amount of black color that shows through the stamp. Early issues were printed on what appears to be thicker paper compared to the thinner paper used during the Second World War when shortages forced modifications to the paper that was allocated for stamp production.

· 3) The appearance of the color of the stamp when viewed against white, and later black paper under the same lighting conditions. The colors are affected by the lighting, but are at least consistent. I use the Stanley Gibbons colour key for some assistance. This is the most unreliable measurement of the three, and it is typically used after the others are evaluated.

The Falkland Islands set at first glance appears to consist of stamps that for the most part are fairly similar. Many of the printings do not differ that much in terms of color. In fact, with the exception of the 1/ and a few other issues, I find that the most telling trait is the appearance of the paper and gum characteristics. These traits seem to be fairly constant, and can be identified fairly easily once they are properly identified.

Before we begin with the identification process, let me give you a composite of the issues, as I have found them. My information comes from several sources: Potter & Shelton's "The Printings of King George VI Colonial Stamps" which was published in 1952; "The Falkland Islands and Dependencies" by Stefan Heijtz; "The 2008 editions of the Commonwealth K.G.V.I. Catalogue" (CW #); Scott (ST #) and Stanley Gibbons (SG #) Catalogs. The chart below shows the various printings as described by Potter & Shelton. The printing dates are primarily quoted from Mr. Heijtz. A few are from Potter & Shelton, and are marked with an *. The quantities printed are quoted from Mr. Heijtz's book. The catalog numbers used are to help you identify your stamps based on the catalog you choose to use as a resource, and to help you find these stamps through the various dealers who provide them. If a catalog does not list the specific printing, the number is shown with the suffix "v" to indication that there is variation in the printings that may be found under that listing.

Although Potter & Shelton list a 1941 4d and a 1948-50 Colonial Release of the 1/3d, I have been advised by noted Falkland Island specialist Tony Belfield that these are not correct. These stamps were not printed. The dates were left in the chart in order to correlate to the original listing by Potter & Shelton.

I will admit that there are probably other discrepancies in this chart. If you note any errors, additional information would be appreciated. This article is posted on the Internet to invite collaboration. Here are a few differences I have noted: The 2d violet issues as described by Potter & Shelton differ from all other sources. I feel the other sources are correct in this case, and reassigned them accordingly. Where print quantities are not listed the issue was not included in Mr.Heijtz's book, I assume they are part of another total shown, but cannot be determined due to other circumstances. This is not that unusual for King George VI issues. Remember, that World War II was occurring during this time period. Stamp issue records did not survive for other Colonial issues.

Assuming that you take a little time to look over the table; you should note that there were four primary printing dates: 1937, 1938, 1944, and 1949. These dates were used for most of the issues. I would like to describe these issues first.

One of my theories in studying stamp printings, is that stamps that were printed at the same time are very likely to have similar paper, gum, and color. This theory was originally proposed to me by my friend Larry Goldberg, the former editor of George VI. Larry (who is in the advertising business) suggested to me that a printer makes a print run as efficiently as possible. The ink is measured and mixed to meet the required print run; and is used as soon as possible to avoid waste. The paper would also be allocated from some type of bundle, and would be typically used sequentially. In this type of circumstance, the gum would likely be applied in one process also. Naturally, there are known exceptions to this theory; but if you take a close look at the paper and gum characteristics of the Falkland Islands issues, they do seem to follow a recognizable pattern. This pattern is what I use to sort the printings.

Okay, so if you agree with Larry's theory about stamp production, how do you figure out the characteristics of the various printings? Luckily for this issue, there were some changes in color and design that can help isolate specific printings which can be used as reference copies. These issues are primarily used to make the assumptions that I have made about identifying the Falkland Islands printings. The list is shown below:

1937 Issues:

Let's start with the 1937 printings. Normally, the first printings are among the more elusive issues for a King George VI set. Bermuda is a good example, where a set of the first printing keyplates would sell for over $1,000 U.S. In the case of the Falkland Islands, there is no current premium for stamps of this era. In fact, many of the later printings are more valuable. The 1937 printings are fairly easy to identify. In fact, if you have just purchased only one set of this issue, you have a reference copy of the 1937 printing: It is the 2-1/2d Flock of Sheep issue. This stamp was printed only once, in 1937. If you look at the back of this stamp against black paper, you should notice that the gum is not very smooth. In fact, there are typically visible cracks in the gum. The watermark is fairly visible without enhancement, assuming your vision is properly corrected. Comparing the back of the stamp against white paper, the color tends to be more yellowish-white than the white of laser printer paper. In the case of the 2-1/2d issues, there is no reason to compare the color of the stamp, but we will do this for other issues.

In summary, the 1937 issues can be found by looking for the gum cracks, and the yellowish paper. I will admit to you that I have found some 2-1/2d issues without these cracks, so this method is not fool-proof. It is, however, the one that I typically use to evaluate my printings.

1938 Issues:

Isolating a 1938 issue for comparison will take a little more effort on your part. I use the 2d Black and Violet issues for this purpose. Unfortunately, there were two printings, so before we can allocate a reference piece, we have to figure out how to identify the printings. Luckily, the two printings vary, and can be fairly easily differentiated based on the color of the stamps. Looking at the chart, you should note that the descriptions according to the chart are as follows:

1937 Printing: 2d Black & Violet

1938 Printing: 2d Grey-Black & Dull Violet

Ironically, Potter & Shelton have these two printings reversed, but all of the other sources show the Dull Violet shade as a 1938 printing. Based on the crackly gum characteristics of the Black & Violet issue, I agree with the other sources. The primary visible color difference between the two printings is the dull violet color of the 1938 printing. If you have multiple copies, look at them all against black paper, and concentrate only on the violet frame. Assuming that you have enough copies to have both printings, you should note two distinctly different colors. One is deeper and more pronounced than the other which is dull and less pronounced. Do you see it?

The deeper more pronounced color should be the 1937 printing. Flip it over, and look at the gum. Is it cracked? If so, you have found the 1937 issue. The duller colored issue should be the 1938 issue. That is the one we will study for reference.

The bad news about identifying the 1938 issues is this: They differ from one another more than the 1937 printings. As a result, you will not always be identify a stamp that was printed in 1938 by the method I am about to describe. Please let me know if you find other variations. I will publish them as addenda to this article.

Looking at the Dull Violet issue, flip over all of the copies you have found. (I hope there is more than one, or this may not work.) Comparing the backs against black paper, you should note that some of the stamps do not appear to be very flat looking. In fact, on some of my copies, I have noticed a wrinkled look to the gum (not the paper) that runs vertically up the stamp. This effect reminds me of a stretched cotton shirt just before it is ironed. The shirt looks flat, but these little wrinkles appear. This is the characteristic I have seen on some of the 1938 printings. Unfortunately, not all of them. You should be able to see this effect better if you look at the stamp from a 45 degree angle with the light source at a 45 degree angle behind the stamp. For the record, the gum and paper will look yellowish compared to the white laser paper on this issue, but are not as yellowish as the 1937 printing. You should also know that I have seen some slight gum cracking on a few of the 1938 printings, but it is not as pronounced as the 1937 issues. So be careful to compare the color after you have looked at the gum and paper.

1944 Issues:

The 1944 issues differ significantly from the earlier issues we described. If you are lucky enough to find a 9d issue on tinted paper, the comparison will be fairly easy. Looking at the back of the stamp, you should notice that the gum is perfectly flat. Where you noted cracks and a wavy appearance to the gum for the 1937 and 1938 printings; the 1944 printings have no texture at all. Compare the back of the stamp against a piece of white laser paper. You should note that the color is still yellowish-white, but not as yellowish as the 1937 printing.

If you are unable to find a tinted paper 9d issue, you should still try to compare your stamps to find this printing. It is fairly common particularly among the four high values of the set.

2/1949 Issues:

I guarantee that if you have a complete set with the 6d Black, you can find this printing. You see, the 6d black was not reprinted. Take a moment to compare it to the other printings we have isolated. You should note that the gum is similar to the 1944 printing in that it is flat with no variation. If your lighting is good, you should also notice that the gum and paper appears whiter than all of the other printings; and that the paper appears just a little thinner. This thinner paper trait is not a measurement, just an impression based on the way the design shows through from the front when compared against black paper.

Although you do not need to know the characteristics of the 2/1949 printing to find the 6d black, or the 2-1/2d Goose issue, it will help you isolate the 7/1949 printings. They are very similar to this printing.

7/1949 Printings:

The 4 high values of the Falkland Islands "thin paper issues" sell for a fairly good premium over the other issues. The 7/1949 printings are the "thin paper issues", so there is an incentive to find these issues. For what it is worth, I would characterize these issues as the "white paper issues", but that is my opinion.

The most obvious trait is the white paper. It is similar to the 2/1949 issues, and can be easily seen against black paper. I use the 6d black for comparison. Although there are some differences, these issues are closer to the 6d black than any other printing.

For the record, the 7/1949 printings do seem scarce to me. I have not found that many. If you look at the numbers printed, you may get the impression that these were printed in about the same quantity as the other issues. However, there is one piece of information missing from the chart. There were issues destroyed when this set of stamps was replaced with the new printing in 1952. These destroyed issues would primarily be from the 1949 printing since they would be the ones still sitting unsold at the local Post Office. Quoting from Mr. Heijtz again, here are the quantities destroyed:

The Remaining Printings - 1941, 1942, and 1947:

These printings comprised several of the low value issues. Unfortunately, they are more difficult to isolate by paper and gum. From the stamps that I have examined, it appears that the 1941 and 1942 issues seem to be close to the 1944 printings with the flat gum appearance and the 1947 issues were on a whiter paper and gum than the 1944 issues, in fact they tend to be close to the appearance of the 1949 issues. I used color differences viewed against both black and white paper, and my best guess after looking at multiple copies of each value.

How I Sorted Each Value:

As a summary, I thought it might help to describe how I sorted each value to further explain my thought process. Please remember, this does not work with two stamps. I accumulated as many copies as possible prior to making the comparisons and laid out each value on a sheet of paper to make these comparisons. I tend to look first at the paper and gum, and then the colors as described by Potter & Shelton in making my decisions. Please treat these scans as approximations of the stamps. They are low resolution so this article will load at a reasonable rate of speed, but not an exact copy of the actual colors. There is no foolproof way to compare colors over the net. However, in most cases, the relative differences can be seen. Here is my description of the process for each value, and remember, I am describing subtle differences.